About gelato
The craft, the technology, the difference
Ice cream is a favourite the world over — but have you ever wondered how, and when, people first came to enjoy it?
The first ice cream is thought to have been made by the Chinese, several thousand years ago. Somewhat fuller records from ancient Egypt tell us the pharaohs were great enthusiasts too. To have their frozen refreshment they sent their slaves into the cold mountains to gather great blocks of ice, which were carried back on camels through the cooler nights and buried in sand under straw during the day. At the end of that punishing journey only a small piece of ice reached the pharaoh, and his servants blended it with fruit.
As the centuries passed, ice cream became easier to come by — but to arrive at the ice cream we know today, the masters of the craft had a long road to travel.
The technology of making ice cream
In the nineteenth century, making ice cream was no easy business. It called for real organisation in sourcing ingredients and in storing them, because there was no refrigeration. The fundamental problem was ice, without which the mixture could not be chilled at all. There were caches in cellars used to keep ice, and the ice cream makers would draw on them daily until the supply ran out.
A hand-cranked ice cream machine held around three litres. The vessel was wooden, and inside it sat a copper pot. Ice, water and salt went in around the copper; inside it, cooked milk was stirred together with the rest of the ingredients. The combination of ice and salt chilled the copper, and on its surfaces the ice cream turned from liquid into a frozen cream — GELATO.
With the arrival of electricity, mechanical ice cream machines began to be built. Making a single flavour took a very long time, thirty to forty-five minutes. Today's machines make far greater quantities in far less.
The combination of ice and salt chilled the copper, and on its surfaces the ice cream turned from liquid into a frozen cream — GELATO.
Keeping ice cream
In the past, ice cream had to be sold soon after it was made, because there was never enough ice to keep it. It was mostly sold in the street, from carts holding vessels packed with ice. Today there are refrigerated cabinets that can keep ice cream a great deal longer.
Gelato I ostale vrste
We tend to call every frozen dessert ice cream, but there are real differences between them.
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Gelato
Gelato artigianale is ice cream made the traditional way, using fresh ingredients — milk, cream, sugar, honey and a natural stabiliser, the carob flour known as KARUBA GUMA. Made that way, it is a wholesome thing to eat.
Gelato comes from the Italian gelare, meaning “to freeze”. It is usually made with milk, and cream is sometimes added to improve the texture. Because it holds less fat than standard ice cream, it has a lightness and a freshness of flavour.
In the early stages it looks much like ice cream, chiefly because of the custard base — but it is churned more slowly and chilled at a slightly higher temperature. That slow churning works less air into it, which is why gelato is denser. The higher chilling temperature keeps it silkier and softer, and lets the flavour itself come further forward.
- Milk fat
- Less fat than standard ice cream
- Preparation
- Churned more slowly, chilled at a higher temperature
- Texture
- Denser, silkier and softer
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Ice Cream
Similar to gelato, and usually the dessert we mean when we say ice cream. It holds a higher percentage of fat and sugar. The custard base into which the flavours and inclusions go is churned far faster than gelato, so it carries much more air. It is also chilled at a lower temperature, which makes it harder.
- Milk fat
- A higher percentage of fat and sugar
- Preparation
- Churned faster, chilled at a lower temperature
- Texture
- Harder, with more air
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Sorbetto
Sorbet is sometimes called false ice cream. It is made from water, fruit purée, a sweetener and an emulsifier. It contains no fat at all and, depending on the sweetener, fewer calories than ice cream. A frozen dessert to be eaten with a clear conscience.
- Milk fat
- Contains no fat
- Preparation
- Water, fruit purée, sweetener and emulsifier
- Texture
- Smooth
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Granita
Considered a drink, but served like ice cream. It is most often made from one third fruit, one third water and one third sugar. Unlike sorbet, which is smooth, granita has the structure of ice flakes — achieved by scraping the mixture as it freezes.
- Milk fat
- —
- Preparation
- One third fruit, one third water, one third sugar
- Texture
- The structure of ice flakes
The nutritional values of ice cream
Dairy ice cream contains 16–18% sugar, 7–10% fat and up to 5–7% milk proteins. As such it has a low glycaemic index, is easily digested, and holds everything a wholesome snack between meals needs. Its calorific value varies between 90 and 140 kcal. Fruit ice cream contains 20–24% sugar, is up to 50% fruit, and is rich in the fibre that fruit gives us.
Industrially made ice cream is a good choice too. Because of the production process it contains more emulsifiers and stabilisers, and alongside milk fats it contains vegetable fats, which affect both the flavour and the structure.
| Kind | Component | Value |
|---|---|---|
| Dairy ice cream | Sugar | 16–18% |
| Dairy ice cream | Fat | 7–10% |
| Dairy ice cream | Milk proteins | up to 5–7% |
| Dairy ice cream | Calorific value | 90–140 kcal |
| Fruit ice cream | Sugar | 20–24% |
| Fruit ice cream | Fruit content | up to 50% |